I
was feeling mixed emotions, when train gradually departed from the
Coimbra station. I could see the reflection of my cousin´s face
mirroring from its window. He was heartbroken, his long face and
crying eyes showing it. At the same time he kept his composure, this
tall, young and strong gentleman. Of course it was difficult for him.
It was his break - up not a honeymoon trip. Even worse, the „
breaker“ was there.
The
lovely, cute and caring miss Sunshine. A true hippie soul, who could
accomplish something meaningful in this evil world. A woman I could
consider my sister, I thought while I looked at her ginger hair,
pancake cheeks and utter happiness. Before their arrival from Spain I
naively believed that I could fix their problem with my magical words
but time had did its thing. My theory that love is a chemical
reaction, that lasts between the brain for 1,5 years, was getting a
new example. Something was forever gone.
My
cousin went to break up with my sister in San Sebastian, where
the girl had started Erasmus. Me and my cousin blamed the „
Erasmus euphoria“, the naive gratitude, love and joy for their
break up but the girl did not agree. We thought that new countries
can mess up girls heads. It even can mess up men´s mind. I still
reminiscence my naiveness and euphoria in Cyprus where I did my
Erasmus exchange studies. Every new person, boring or typical
randomness was considered miraculous, inspiring and life-changing.
Every event, trip was like a meeting with a god, or every girl was
like a woman of my dreams. I recalled my dream, the jolly madrilenja
and felt how my self-loathe took
over my body. I wanted to self-destruct, dance with the devils, drink
poison and sell my soul.
But
as years went by, and the memory of our naive love vanished, she
departed to Brazil and I stayed sad and with saudades in Coimbra. Now
I happen to hate Spanish and consider the love my biggest mistake of
life time. Of course it is my jealousy, anger and bitterness talking.
It is the utter sadness that I could never get back those walks by
the seaside, I can never get back those early morning passion
fragments and the chance to smell her cocoa cream form her neck in
the smoky disqotecue surroundings.
We
passed by from deserted small villages, wide vineyards and
farmhouses. I talked about random stuff, interesting places of
Portugal, just to keep my cousin alive. I knew what he was feeling, I
knew the pain, the pain, when the painmaker is right next to you. A
painmaker, who is there, near you, optimistic, inspired and happy
with her life.
My
cousin, my brother, no, my only friend told me, that he should
have left the girl in Spain. But the girl wanted to come to Portugal.
Maybe the girl was scared to let him go. My brother said that he will
visit me alone, cause I could help him to get back on track. Not
care about women, no, to be honest, hate women, like
heartbroken me had been doing.
But
the girl started crying, started crying so vulnerably, so sincerely.
She was a small child, a small baby, a frigid person. My cousin´s
heart melted and he agreed to take a journey with her to Portugal.
The train departed night time and two ex-lovers did not sleep whole
trip because of the rigidness of the seats. They stayed up all night
like friends, sipping cheap Sangria and talking about their
expectation about Portugal.
Even
though my cousin´s eyes reflected his ice-age mentality, mirroring
from the train windows, he understood something. He understood that
trains keep always moving, whether there are bumps on the way or no.
Even if the passengers go off at some stations, the train keeps
moving, the life is evolving and one has to stay on the journey.
Journey is life. Sometimes it can be beautiful, sometimes it can be
heart-breaking, dark, dissapointing and depressing but it is always
taking you somewhere. And to move is to be alive.
*
*
I
did not know, where my cousin´s heart was going, but I knew that
this train is going to Luso. I hoped that my enthusiasm, my endless
lullabies of Portugal and portuguese people could make peace between
them. I hoped that the miraculous waters of Luso could heal my
cousin´s soul.
At
the same time I was reminiscing our late night Skype discussions
about women or our truth-seekings in many bars in dowtown Tallinn,
where whiskey made our souls free. But there was pain, even anger
towards women! Oooh, those bitter discussions, how we sometimes
hated them, how they used us like condoms and threw away like Big Mac
packages. Straight to recycle bin.
But
sometimes it is good to be in the recycle bin, because after getting
out, you can appreciate more the cleanness and purity. Warm
shower, well-cooked meal and taking showers together with amazing
female.
*
When
we finally got to Luso, we were at peace. I kept going with my
lullabies. First I needed to use my mau portugues in the train
station.. What an enormous bridge it had, views straight to the
valleys of this divine area. The train station had only one person,
an old men, who had set table with coffee, cigarettes. He was looking
at the valley and murmuring something. When I asked for directions,
he greeted us with his teethless smile, gave me directions and waved
us farewell. We departed towards Buçaco
mountains, while the trainstation´ s goat sang us farewell Fado. (
I do believe that he was singing fado, since he was portuguese and
there are not any portuguese who could not sing that. Or feel that.
And feeling is something that is associated with poetic souls and
singing)
Luso
was tranquil as the life when we were young. When we were small
adventurers in our grandmother garden. When I could just put down my
blanket under the apple trees, enjoy their colourful leaves and their
smell, and read Estonian literature.
In
the willage we were greeted by old ladies, cleaning their gardens and
picking the leaves. We breathed the fresh air of Buçaco
mountains, caressed lurking dogs and sleeping cats and felt happy to
feel the smell of garden logfires.
Even
though ex-lovers were distant, I saw that with my lullabies sometimes
they laughed together, they laughed like it was the best day, they
laughed like they were still in love, that it was -at least -
possible. They became one, they became powerful, people who could fly
over those deep valleys or even build a new bridge between them! I
was happy, since I was with my brother and sister.
Before
taking on Buçaco
we stopped by local supermercado, bought beer and chourico.
We shared them as family. . The worst thing of this break up was that
I truly loved both of them. But the break-up always forced the
standbyers to choose a side. Of course I will choose my brother, my
soulmate, my life-long supporter and houmie, I thought while hiking
towards Buçaco
... But at the same time I realized, I was sad, angry, depressed to
say no, to leave behind my sister..
*
Life
is all about choices. Our choice was to enjoy life to the fullest in
Portugal. We climbed up to this bitch, severely sweating,
sometimes even winening WHY THE FUCK IS THIS PLACE SO FAR.
*
Once
and then we enjoyed great views to the peaceful village, drank the
healing Luso mineral water. Silently I thanked the God for bringing
them here. I missed Estonia and my beloved ones. Even though they had
this utterly disgusting situation, we could still discuss about arts,
dreams, past and our personal saudades at the Mondego riverside. We
shared Italian wine – how stupid is to buy Italian wine in
Portugal?!
Even
if we were drunk all the time, we were sincerely happy, happy as
Christmas. We could admire the view to the university campus, while
the golden sun made its presence so grandiose! We could feel freedom,
when we were greeted by the jolly breezes of river Mondego. While we
shared our cigarettes, we shared our secrets! Next to secrets we
shared our dreams and with shared dreams we became All Mighty, God.
We were not scared to grow old, since we had dreams to pursue on, we
had the passion to wait for perfect life, like the old fishermen by
the riverside.
*
To
be honest, this hiking was tired as fuck. Soon we met one dachshund,
tottering towards us with his winky limping. We thought he was the
sign of found hotel, as we entered to the premises of wildly garden.
Even though there was a sign that prohibited trespassing, we still
went. We went, cause we were young, protesting and ignorant to
old-fashionness. When we finally got deep into the garden, we saw
grandiose house, with arched doorways and wide windows. Suddenly we
were approached by three local mowglies, all happy, alive and
inspired. They hugged the dog and called his name, name that I do not
recall. I guess his name was a Dog of Happiness.
The
children did not mind the tresspassing but the old, witchy looking
women gave us a disrespectful glaze. She knew that we were
extranjeiros, so she started to speak with us in spanish and
french. When I tried to respond with my mau portugues, she
told us that we were on the wrong way, wrong garden, wrong life. How
could one be wrong, when he/ she is happy! Our happiness could
not sadly stay with those mowglies and Dog Of Happiness, so we had to
depart. We were stared away by this old witch, who at night time
becomes devil herself.
We
walked miles, sweating, winening and chain-smoking cigarettes.
Finally we wanted to give up and go back to the Luso, but at some
point we saw signs leading to hotel Buçaco.
Soon
we could hear already chants of many people. We knew we were close..
At some point we decided not to follow the signs, the life of guided
tours rather climb on our own. We turned towards forests and started
marching up on rocky surface. Even though my brother and sister were
separated, they did not mind to lend hands, when the other needed
support in order to get over rocky steps or fallen trees. We passed
by small chapel and saw army of colourful T-shit- wearing volunteers.
The
forest was full of them, all making strange exercises, teambuilding
activities, while the trainers were giving orders and suggestions. We
planned to join them, to become one with crazy people, to lose
ourselves but then we saw the magnificence of this hotel.
A
person who witnesses beauty has never nothing to lose. We did not
mind to be broke, young and stupid. I guess my brother and sister did
not mind to be separated, forever gone, soon to be distant. We
admired those peak walls, maritime ornaments, spheres, stranded ropes
and azueljos and were left breathless. Speechless. Soulless. Even
though it was 5-star hotel, we did not feel that it was ruined by
money. We gazed this beautiful neo-manueline piece of art and fell in
love with the world. We did not mind the crazy volunteers or the
escaping sunset.
The
sunset was dissappearing quite fast, leading us to paranoia that now
the world gets dark, lonely, desperate; we realized this even more
when the harsh-cold mountain breezes started to blow. But we did not
give up, while we silently strolled in to peaceful chapel. Usually
the chapel had ticket, but there was nobody guarding. So we went in
like criminals. Finally we got to the garden, the Garden of Eden. How
good smelled the roses and the bushes of this symmetrical garden,
how gradual were the grapes and how peaceful looked the small bonds!
I was sure that Lonnie Smith had to have similar garden in
North-America, otherwise he would not have been able to compose such
a beautiful musical piece like „ Garden of Peace.“
We
sat there and lid cigarettes. The wind got stronger and my cousin
remembered his loneliness. I could sense that from his eyes. We
smoked in silence, and I was down, cause I could not come up with
right words. Words to motivate him, to give him strenght, light at
the end of tunnel. To be honest, I was breathless by the beauty of
this hotel.
I
felt like this beauty killed me, that this beauty, utter peacefulness
left me first time ever speechless. Speechless forever like Mel
Blanc. We made touristic photos with this grandiose building, I
noticed that my brother and sister were never together on the
picture. Meaning, that this memory is not common, mutual.
I
remained speechless, I was unable to help my brother to save him from
his hell. From his pain, need for escapism.
The
thing with silent and peaceful places is that they are the mirror of
ones soul. They help the soul to become alive. I did not have a
problem, since I had for years killed my soul with fucked up
relationships, break-ups, cigarettes, insomnia and drugs. I was so
empty that I was not affected by the place, I was so empty that I
could just let this beauty take over me. But my cousin, his young,
unruined, yet-not-fucked up sould could not stand it. Could not stand
the cheery chantings and euphoria of my sister, her gallant dancing
moves between the garden bushes. Oh, her, the dancing queen!
*
Soon we started to go back to Luso. It was much easier to go down. I guess it is the same in life in general: it is easier to go down, to go to hell, to go beneath the earth, to get addicted, to loose hope, just drop and drop, drop and drop. But we dropped as young people, we got lost as children in the midst of the peaceful Luso. We were greeted with cats ready to be caressed.
Also,
there were dogs. In general I hate dogs, I only love the Dog of
Happiness. And the dogs hated us as well, all barking while we
entered to prohibited grounds. When we finally got to the center of
Luso – is there a centre in such small place? OF course
there is, I am an Estonian, a person from small country and small
cities. We went again to supermercado, bought few Sagres´ and
chourico and sat at the bus stop. How freshening was the smell
of garden log fires, while we silently chew on our food. I noticed
that my brother and sister shared their food and I got back my power
to share lullabies of great Portuguese and Portugal. Soon they
started laughing, and they laughed together.
When
we finally go to train station, there was still this never-againg,
toothless old man. Again, smiling. While my sister went to the
toilet, I tried to explain to my brother the meaning of saudade.
The great advantage of embracing the past, to living it through, to
appreciating the times. Gradually my brother started to appreciate
the past times with her first girlfriend. He lid his cigarette and
looked at me with kind smile. I know he was happy, even if he did not
say anything, or did not express anything.
Finally we sat in the train and I knew that my cousin´s eyes are happy. Happy to look at the passing villages, vineyards and deserted houses. He understood that life is a journey and past times a marvelous starting point for our present moment. We were happy with life, we appreciated past time chance to be in love, to be with love.
In
the night time we bought whiskey and met friends in the radio. We
shared thoughts, dreams and personal saudades til dawn. I noticed
that my brother and sister smiled at the same time. I noticed that
stars were out, and ready for use. At that time I was too drunk to
use them, to write them, but now in the silent night I write for
love. I write for my Brother and Sister..
Aitäh,
Kaur ja Silvia, et tulite mulle külla..
Tean,
et teil on ees ilusad ajad, missest, et eraldiseisvad..
Pühitsege
oma armastuse-meenutusi, võtke ette eesmärke, maid ja unistusi
ja
ärge unustage oma vanemaid tänamast
et
nad teid tegid
et
nad tegid teil võimalikuks neid momente, elusid, paiku nautida..
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